Exmouth Coral Bay Guide
Meta: A look at the attractions around Exmouth, Ningaloo and Coral Bay; what to plan for in terms of season, drives, snorkelling and a few tips.
You could put together a week or just a day from the nearby attractions in Exmouth, Coral Bay and Ningaloo. Put simply, for the widest range of easy day trips, lookouts, beaches and reef, make Exmouth your home base and head to Coral Bay when you want unencumbered access to the water. Ask Carys Lindley and she will say the region is not a postcard to be gazed at; you have to plan for distance, wind and tide and how much saltwater your skin can stand before it resembles old toast.
There is no shortage of good coastal travel on this part of Western Australia that is as rewarding as it is practical. From the Cape Range National Park you can get to the attractions in Exmouth, and if the conditions are right there are some very approachable spots for a novice to snorkel in Coral Bay. Not sure where to put down roots or when to come to Ningaloo? Check out our Ningaloo best month recommendations here. We cover the substance of it here, from access and costs to the things that trip people up and the days that go pear-shaped for those who do not put in the work.
The Coast’s Appeal
One does not need a second mortgage or an expedition to do some proper snorkeling on the Ningaloo Reef off Exmouth and Coral Bay. Much of the time the fringing reef is so near shore it is part of any ordinary holiday.
Then there is the contrast. You might spend a day with turtles and coral gardens and find yourself the next behind the wheel of a car in the red limestone gorges, stopping at a lookout or beach to see a landscape that was flat as a pancake one minute and then it is not.
To Stay In Exmouth Or Coral Bay
Exmouth has the edge if you prefer having supplies and options at hand and easier passage to Cape Range National Park. It puts the west coast beaches, Milyering, the lighthouse at Vlamingh Head, the Ningaloo Centre and Turquoise Bay within better reach.
Coral Bay makes for a more straightforward holiday of the simple beach variety, with the lagoon front and centre and the reef practically part of the town. Families and first-time snorkellers tend to favour it, as do those who would sooner put in a walk to the water than make arrangements.
Reality Check
Do not make the mistake of thinking Exmouth and Coral Bay are close enough to run back and forth on a whim. The 150 km drive to one from the other will take you anywhere from 1 hour 40 to over two hours in all but the best of circumstances, factoring in roadworks, a fuel stop, photos and the odd bit of wildlife.
And the weather is another matter. Wind will put a damper on one snorkel site and make of another something special, even under clear skies. Be flexible on Ningaloo and you will have a better day.
Some Planning To Spare You Trouble
It is not hard going, but vague timing is penalised by the heat, marine conditions and distances. Those who check the conditions and fill up the tank before they leave town are the ones who are rewarded.
People often put in a request for the ideal month to visit Ningaloo. The answer is whatever you are after: humpback whales, manta rays, whale sharks, turtles or a calmer, less crowded snorkel. One size does not fit all.
Seasonal Matters
Marine tours are to be relied on in the drier months and the roads and skies are more co-operative, making for an easier time of it with the reef and swimming. You will generally find the whale shark season in the wake of the coral spawning cycle at Ningaloo, with humpback watching to follow later on. But availability and conditions are fickle, so use the seasonal windows as a guide.
Norther WA is also subject to cyclone conditions from November through April. Even if your accommodation is far from any storm, a change in swell or visibility can alter things in a hurry.
A Few Things To Do First
- Put in a booking for your flights and any non-negotiable manta ray or whale shark tours at the same time.
- For the walks and drives in Cape Range, take more water than you figure on.
- Have a word with the tide and wind before you pick a place to snorkel. A sloppy plan is not going to be rescued by mobile coverage.
- When you are making for a stop with limited services, have your cash or card at hand and put in some reef-safe sun protection and a pair of good sandals.
Marine Encounters Worth Booking
Before parting with a fair amount of money it is as well to know the marine experiences on offer are not all of a piece. A few are once-in-a-lifetime affairs, others are more straightforward shore-based wins that will have you grinning like a fool at fish whose name eludes you.
Should you only have the budget for one water tour of note, let your tolerance for long days and how confident you are in the water be your guide. They are memorable but do not think of them as gentle float-about excursions.
Whale Sharks And Humpbacks
For many a traveller the headline act in Ningaloo is to swim with whale sharks; it is extraordinary if the conditions are right. But it is a full-day affair, an early start and several hundred dollars per head to get into the deep water from the boat. Operators will put a price of AUD 500 to 700+ on it, give or take, depending on the season and what is included.
The physical side of it can catch people off guard. With the sun and swell and nerves about you, even a strong swimmer may be worn out by the repeated entries. It is more stress than magic if open water does not put you at ease.
Manta Rays And Turtles
Coral Bay is where you will find manta rays in force, and the tours there are well suited to those after a bit of wildlife without the kind of day a whale shark trip entails. Then there are the turtles, the coast’s overachievers: you will see them from the shore while snorkelling with little trouble, though they are not as dramatic as the brochures would have you believe.
Turtle spotting and lagoon snorkelling are better value for the effort for a family or the nervous type. There is no need to make a holiday an exam.
Best Places To Snorkel
You will not go wrong with the dive and snorkel sites at Ningaloo, yet they are not all the same. A misjudgement of the current or visibility and you can end up with a mouthful of seawater and regret instead of a fine morning. Carys Lindley has a way of putting it: go for the site the day’s conditions dictate, not the one with the most to its name. Turquoise water is a thing of beauty but the current is still there.
Turquoise Bay Drift
There is a reason the drift snorkel at Turquoise Bay is so well regarded. The lagoon is absurdly pretty, the coral and fish life top notch and it is a sensible means of covering ground provided you make your entry and exit properly. People tend to overrate their own composure and underrate the current. Do not be pushed to it when you are already rattled, and stick to the area set aside for it. An early arrival will spare you the crowds and the parking headaches of peak times.
Five Finger Reef And Oyster Bridge
Those who do not mind a measure of effort and heeding local advice will fare better at Five Finger Reef. Some parts are not as forgiving as the shore spots close to Exmouth. Oyster Bridge is a quieter proposition for the self-assured snorkeller but requires you to give some thought to the tide and how you are getting in; it is not the sort of place to bumble into because a map pin seemed near enough.
| Spot | Best For | Access | Difficulty | What Catches People Out |
| Turquoise Bay | Most visitors, drift snorkel | 2WD road to car park and short walk on the beach | Moderate | Current, midday crowds, poor choice of entry |
| Five Finger Reef | Confident snorkellers | Varies (local advice recommended) | Moderate to hard | Quick changes in conditions |
| Oyster Bridge | Quieter access to the reef | Uneven entry points possible | Moderate | Footing, coral exposure and the tide |
| Coral Bay Lagoon | Families and beginners | Easy from the beach | Easy | Visibility can be winded down |
Cape Range Beyond The Beach
The attractions in Cape Range National Park put some structure to the coast. Lacking them the whole trip can become a blur of “nice water” and snack wrappers in the car. Add in the gorges and lookouts and you have drives with a landscape that is ever changing enough to keep everyone in check.
Timing is of the essence here. The heat comes on fast and there is not much in the way of shade, so start early and bring water to make the best of it.
Gorges And Short Walks
There is no better way to get a view of the inland Cape Range than with a walk in the Mandu Mandu Gorge and Yardie Creek. The red limestone gorges do not present a technical challenge for any reasonably mobile traveller, yet the exposed and rocky terrain makes good shoes a must; forget about thongs.
Do not be under the impression that a “short” walk will be over quickly. Factor in uneven ground, time for photos and the odd person who has to stop and make a spectacle of himself staring at a wallaby, and it will run longer than you think. In any heat one should put in some miles and be done with it well before midday.
And for lookouts or to catch a sunset
Vlamingh Head and its lighthouse are time well spent for their expansive coastal views. They are among Exmouth’s more straightforward outings, making them a convenient choice on the day you arrive or when the sea is up, and you can have an easy beach and lookout without putting in a long walk.
Standard vehicles can manage the road in normal conditions but take care around dawn and dusk with wildlife in mind. A fine sunset is hardly worth it if you have put in a roo on the return.
Coral Bay: no fuss required
One goes to Coral Bay for the ease of it. The lagoon is on your doorstep, there is a slower pace and most of what you will want to do calls for nothing more than some water, sunscreen and keeping a lid on your hat from the wind. To those who would rather not do much driving it has more of a holiday air than Exmouth does; to others looking for a range of dining and services it is wanting. Both are valid positions to take.
Time at the lagoon and beach
The lagoon is the natural attraction and for good reason. You can paddle, do some unassuming snorkeling or have a family day where not everyone is keen on the same sort of action. But gentle waters do not mean you can be without a plan. With the wind you may find visibility is compromised, the shade is scant so the midday sun is unforgiving and you will be cooked in no time. If you intend to put in the hours, bring your own shade.
Reef access and local tours
From Coral Bay boat tours are available for manta rays and the like in the Ningaloo Marine Park, for the traveller who wants to see marine life with less preamble and driving than some of the days out of Exmouth.
Then there is the question of cost. Throw in a tour, accommodation and meals with fuel and a couple will be through several hundred AUD in a day without any effort. It is rarely cheap, though often worth the outlay.
Making sense of the drive
On paper the drive from Exmouth to Coral Bay is simple, but it is best to have some idea of the sort of day you are making of it. Rather than throw in haphazard stops, decide if it is to be a day of national park scenery and beaches or just getting from A to B in peace.
South of the bay there are station stays and other coastal options for the longer-range, but they demand 4WD and planning at times. Be honest with yourself: if you are in a standard hire car, stay within the bounds of what the insurance and vehicle permit.
Stops between bases
A sensible route is to put some fuel and water in the tank and head out of Exmouth to the Cape Range before going north or south as your base dictates. Learmonth Airport is to the south of Exmouth, of interest to the one who is flying in to hit the road straight away.
Warroora Station is a name you will hear from those after a remote coastal experience. Good for self-sufficiency and to avoid the crowds, but not for anyone who expects a café or a dunny to hand every few minutes and polished service.
Logistics and safety
If you are organised the logistics are plain sailing, if not they are an irritation. Most make their way to Exmouth via Learmonth and a drive in, while Coral Bay is more of a road-trip affair unless you are coming from Exmouth.
Before you set off it is prudent to check the Western Australian parks authority for the latest on safety and marine conditions; WA national parks and visitor information is where to begin for any planning.
In the end, the bulk of your costs will be the hire car, the fuel and where you put your head at night.
Exmouth and Coral Bay put a premium on their accommodation in the height of the season, and for what is in truth quite unpretentious stock. You will find that to be the case; with demand running high and supply not to be had, it is only to be expected.
Do not count on any mobile coverage when you are about in the national park and at the larger beach sites you will have to contend with early parking. Make sure to have food and several litres of water a head for your day out, and be prepared to find the best shade already taken.
Who will make the most of it
The kind of traveller this region is made for is one who relishes an outdoorsy day, is up for an early start and does not mind some self-reliance. Swimmers and families with a sureness on the beach, photographers, those with an eye for wildlife or anyone content to forgo the nightlife for the reef will find it excellent.
Not so much for those in search of big-ticket sightseeing sans sand and sun, or urban level of comfort and fully accessible infrastructure wherever they go. Be candid about your activities: some boat tours and snorkelling are not for the anxious or beginner swimmer or where mobility is an issue.
Some plans worth following
There is no call for two weeks in Ningaloo but a degree of realism is called for. With time at a premium, concentrate on Cape Range and a fine reef outing from Exmouth, or the lagoon and a marine tour in Coral Bay.
What follows is the sort of thing I would put forward to a friend as opposed to the “do it all in a day” nonsense the internet is prone to.
One Day Only
Make Exmouth your base. An early trip to Turquoise Bay, then on to a place like Mandu Mandu Gorge or Yardie Creek in the Cape Range before calling it a day at Vlamingh Head Lighthouse for the sunset. The drive to Coral Bay can be left alone unless that is where you are based.A 3-Day Itinerary
Devote the first day to the beaches and attractions of Cape Range National Park. A second day for something substantial like manta rays or whale sharks if the season is right. And on the third, head to Coral Bay or have another, more leisurely day of snorkelling.For the Family
Coral Bay is the place to be, in part or in full. There is the lagoon, short snorkels and a mild wildlife tour to be had. Do not fill every hour with must-dos and long drives unless you have a taste for “Are we there yet?” delivered with renewed emotion.
Before making a booking
Variety is to be had in Exmouth, simplicity in Coral Bay; split your time between them if you can. A well put together trip will have a day in the lookouts or inland, a shore snorkel and a wildlife encounter of note so as not to be monotonous.
Good travel for Carys Lindley is a matter of practical confidence, not having everything perfect. In the Ningaloo Coast that entails an eye for conditions, getting your bookings in for the important things and giving the plan some space for whatever turns up.
FAQ
Between Exmouth and Coral Bay?
You are better served by picking a focus, be it a gorge walk or the Cape Range beaches, than to be stopping off continually. If Exmouth is home for the moment, a rush to and from Coral Bay is not as sensible as Turquoise Bay or Vlamingh Head.
Near Exmouth?
You have the Ningaloo Centre, Milyering, Vlamingh Head and its lighthouse, as well as the Cape Range National Park, Mandu Mandu Gorge and Yardie Creek. They offer everything from history and walks to the reef.
In Coral Bay?
Lagoon swims and the snorkelling spots here are hard to beat, as are the manta ray excursions and easy access to the reef from town. It is ideal for those wanting to spend less time in the car and more in the water.
Coral Bay or Exmouth?
It is not a question of one being superior. Exmouth has the services and day trips to suit some, while others will prefer the compact nature of Coral Bay and how easily one gets to the lagoon.
When to come to Ningaloo?
That will hinge on whether you want to see whales or have calmer snorkelling without the crowds. Most will find the sweet spot is when the risk of a cyclone is down and the marine tours are in good order, but have a look at the tour calendars and present conditions before you commit.